Kalibuhan: A Hidden Paradise

Date of hike: December 27-31, 2018.

Kalibuhan is a landlocked barangay situated in the highlands of the Municipality of Palimbang, Sultan Kudarat and is located on the southern periphery of the vast Kulaman Plateau. This mountainous barangay is home to some indigenous groups of the Manobo tribe; there were also Christians and Muslims settlers in the area. Its diverse environment contains unique floras and faunas that include wild orchids, hornbill, deer, and others. The barangay also offers various natural attractions that are unique, and incomparable from one another.

As our semester winds down its final stretch at that time, a great vacation adventure was I hoped and asked myself to fulfill. I readied myself to what seems to be one of my exciting hiking explorations to date. Moreover, my eagerness to explore some parts of Palimbang ignited an intense enthusiasm in me to discover its hidden paradise and uncover some of its charms, while able to hike its healthy mountain.

A Look Back

During the Philippines’s pre-colonial years, according to Victorino D. Fontanilla’s Sultan Kudarat Province in 24 Years History of Municipality of Palimbang, Palimbang was originally named Pula, which came from a native tree abundant in the area. However, its name Pula was changed when a group of fishermen, who hailed from Palembang in Indonesia, accidentally docked on its shores and later settled and intermarried with the native Maguindanaon. They established a community and appealed to the Datus that the name Pula be changed to Palimbang, in honor to the place where they came from. On August 14, 1959, by virtue of Executive Order No. 350, pursuant to Section 68 Revised Administrative Code, President Carlos P. Garcia proclaimed Palimbang as a Municipality.

Before, there were some rumors of dangers and threats one might encounter when going to Palimbang without a companion who is a resident of a place. Its history was stained with the tragic Palimbang Massacre that happened on September 24, 1974, and aside from that, it has been under the news spotlight in 2015 when an Isis-inspired group, Ansar Al-Khilafa, establishes its force in Brgy Butril that led to a clash between them and the government forces, thus resulted in eight deaths on the terrorist group. It is one of the news that created a chilling effect to the tourist and adventure seekers wanting to explore Palimbang, labeling the place “too dangerous” and “very critical” due to safety and security concerns.

Kalibuhan, to some extent, was not on the radar of every outdoor enthusiast. Some adventure seekers never heard of it or knew about it. At the peak of my mountaineering pursuit in 2013, while studying the map and the geomorphology of the western Sultan Kudarat area, I stumbled upon some significant gully patterns along with the mountain range within the location of Palimbang. It sparked intrigue and curiosity in me that it might house some unexplored and undiscovered waterfalls. It was an idea that I held close until it was validated by my friend, Ma’am Doreen. She said some parts of Palimbang have waterfalls, particularly in Brgy Butril and in “the north”. However, she only visited one waterfall in Brgy Butril, called Metlehe Waterfalls, unfortunately, she hasn’t had a chance to visit some waterfalls because she moved to General Santos City to finish her studies.

Despite the warnings that I received coming from my friends, who were also hikers and mountaineers, it didn’t move me to back down. It even inspired me to push for it no matter what because one of my hiking principles is Hiding in the danger is paradise.

The Long and Winding Road

When I had already established a connection to a few individuals residing at Barangay Kalibuhan, I asked for a direction on how to get there from them.

My first stop was at the General Santos City Public Terminal (Bulaong Terminal). From there, I took a bus bound to Isulan, Sultan Kudarat. The bus [via Santo Niño] departed past 9:00 am and arrived at Isulan Yellow Bus Terminal about 11:20 am. It was a two-hour bus ride. Then, I walked a couple of meters going to Isulan Public Market. I asked a local vendor about the location of the motorcycle terminal bound for Kalibuhan, and he pointed me to the back part of the public market. I easily recognized the motorcycle terminal because of the significant number of habal-habal parked in their respective position and it has also signages where each motorcycle is heading. It was my second stop.

I have waited almost two hours before the habal-habal could depart the terminal. The slight delay was due to some Kalibuhan-bound passengers, who already booked their ride through the driver, did some errands. We departed the motorcycle terminal around 1:00 pm.

As we head to Kalibuhan, we had several stopovers that include one each in Brgy Titulok and Brgy Masiag on the Municipality of Bagumbayan, Sultan Kudarat. Our travel was smooth except the part entering Brgy Gapok, of the Municipality of Senator Ninoy Aquino, where there were still uncemented road and a few road constructions.

From Brgy Gapok, we headed to the road going to Brgy Ned, Municipality of Lake Sebu. Though the road is well paved, the ride was a bit shaky; most of the thoroughfare was not yet cemented. When we arrived at the hanging bridge the three of us passengers stepped out of the motorcycle and walked through it. We waited for the motorcycle at the end of the bridge. We resumed our travel and went through some steep road ascent and descent along the way. I arrived at the Yusuf residence in Kalibuhan around 4:00 pm. It was a grueling three hours of habal-habal ride.

It was a wearisome trip, but along the way, that almost endless ride brought some meaningful appreciation in me about the scenic terrain and natural wonders I have seen, about how kind and humble the new people I befriended in every stopover, and about how traveling alone could bring the most memorable experience. It was amazing!

The Hiking Exploration

On my first day, a moment after my arrival, Tristan and I went to a nearby lake, as the sun is about to set. I am surprised that Kalibuhan contains several beautiful lakes.

On my second day in Kalibuhan, with the help of Tristan and his cousins, we explored the wonders of Sitio Blakol that houses numerous waterfalls, lagoons, and also discovered an underground spring.

On my third day, together with Tristan, his father, Kap Yusuf, his sisters, relatives, and cousins, we explored the unknown beyond of Sitio Kasila [Ebe]. I was even told that nearby Sitio Kasila, there has been a constant terrain meltdown due to the high carbon content of the ground. I also observed during our river trek, near Sitio Kasila, that the majority of the sediments were carbon, fossilized carbon. It was a 2-day hiking expedition in the thick forest of Kalibuhan and Molon. We discovered a beautiful waterfall, I call it the Lower Molon Waterfalls, a deer dwelling, and trekked the lush river valley system nearby.

The Kalibuhan Lakes

The Kalibuhan Lakes were natural attractions of the place. It also has clustered lakes known to locals as Seven Lakes.

The Lake Kalibuhan is one of the several lakes that can be found around Barangay Kalibuhan.

The Blakol Waterfalls

The Blakol Waterfalls is a multi-tiered waterfall and has several deep lagoons. The water run-off passes through several river slopes and falls like a curtain. It also drains inside a cave which can be explored for a one-of-a-kind experience. Surrounding the Blakol Waterfalls is a lush forest that houses wild orchids and hornbill or Kalaw.

The inviting cool waters of the Blakol Waterfalls system is so much enticing, and I am amazed by the refreshing lagoon surrounded by a thick forest.

The Lower Molon Waterfalls

I called it Lower Molon Waterfalls because it has no name yet; Lower Molon because on its upstream hides a towering waterfall which we haven’t explored due to the extreme path and treacherous river trail we have to face. We decided not to advance. However, getting to Lower Molon Waterfalls is not an easy feat; the hike required us of our condition and stamina for the precipitous slope of Mt. Nabadtugan, the challenging river treks, and hiking through its bushy tracks. Nestled in the forest of Mt. Nabadtugan was a deer dwelling and the trees surrounding it contain horn marks.

The Lower Molon Waterfalls was a medium-high waterfall with a very deep basin. It has a strong water run-off that creates a loud sound upon its impact to its basin. Also, surrounding the waterfall was a thick, lush forest.

The Molon-Blakol River Valley

The Molon and Blakol rivers are a tributary to a bigger river system, the Kraan River, and drains, to the coastal barangay of Kraan, all the way to the Celebes Sea. The merging of the two rivers created a unique river valley filled with great rock formations. Fossilized corals and seashells can be found in some huge sedimentary rocks, and in its divides, together with some noticeable fresh underground springs. The lush vegetation around the river valley adds a sense of mystery to its formation.

The Hiker’s Note

The tropical landscape of Barangay Kalibuhan in Palimbang, Sultan Kudarat offers a very diverse, and distinct natural attractions, some were untouched and waiting to be discovered, while some were already known and explored by some. For years, this far-flung barangay has been hiding its secrets. Fortunately, I am grateful, I am among a few outsiders who successfully explored its outskirts and able to unravel its charm and natural attractions.

As a hiker for years, sometimes I am pressed by my desire to do some bold, and daring unconventional adventures; that every time when dangers curtail my hiking plans, it arouses my craving to go further, I would take the risk and grab the chance to push it through despite the dangers. My type of adventures normally is going out to the outdoors only with a small group, which consists of my adventurous friends, or going out alone. I prefer the unfamiliar places, the undeveloped sites, and the extreme locations.

With my coming to Kalibuhan, in the Province of Palimbang, Sultan Kudarat, let it be known to many that the place itself is safe and harmless. The news, together with the rumors, its dangers, and threats in the past, remains in the past because the place itself is totally different now. Basing it on my experience, heading into this unfamiliar place makes me become a vulnerable being towards the whole journey, but it gave me a certain response that I should remain grounded at all times. However, the journey gave me self-realizations, and a new perspective on how I see our region; that there is a piece of paradise despite the hazards of the trails, the moments and the experiences to the unfamiliar land brings so many learning, and memories worth remembering; above all, that there are more beautiful spots waiting to be discovered only if we allow ourselves to be fearless and explore the outside of our usual adventures.

I personally and sincerely thank the Yusuf Family for welcoming me and letting me explore Kalibuhan, and document their piece of paradise while getting some bits of its history. Sooner or later, these amazing wonders could give significant opportunities and transform the barangay as a tourist haven, where locals would reap the blossoms of the tourism boom, and visitors and tourist will experience its natural attractions together with the rich culture and heritage it offers. Kalibuhan is a paradise.

Sukran sa oras apeg sa mga timpo sa tagapeda taw san sa barangay Kalibuhan. Napya ged ginawa ko apeg sana langun na mga kahanda nu na i enggay na kadnan. Dala edsalin u makapagilaya taw paluman. Mahal ko ged sekano. Sukran a benal.